It’s another evergreen Mediterranean tree this week. The stone or umbrella pine. This tree has a lovely rounded dome of green needles and was used in paintings by artists to signify places in the Mediterranean, especially Italy. Now you can find it growing all over England and southern Scotland. Kew Garden’s first stone pine planting was in 1846 and the tree is still growing in the gardens today.
Turner complained about painting trees and is said to have wished that he could do without trees in his landscapes. But he included a super-tall stone pine in his painting Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage, 1832, Tate Britain, looking rather like a light green cloud on a stick.
Sadly, the stone pine in Italy is under attack from the western conifer seed bug and many pines have been affected by this US-based pest. The bugs eat the sap from the developing cones and the seeds don’t develop as a result. Without the seeds, the natural replacement of the pines is threatened.
As well as providing a distinctive piece of landscape punctuation the stone pine produces the little pale pine nuts used in pesto. Mediterranean pine nuts are expensive and more difficult purchase now, and most pine nuts are imported from Asia.
As we’re coming up to Valentine’s Day it may be useful to know that pine nuts were used as an aphrodisiac. The second century Greek writer, Galen suggests that a combination of almonds, honey and pine nuts eaten on three evenings would be effective.
If you want to discover the taste of the stone pine, follow this pesto recipe.
Pine nuts, a small handful
Fresh basil leaves, a big bunch. Just use the leaves, no stems.
Parmesan cheese, about 50g grated
Garlic, one, two or none, depending on your taste. Skin the cloves first.
Olive oil, about 150ml
Lightly, dry roast the pine nuts in a pan, turning to make sure they don’t burn, they just want to darken a little. If you are feeling traditional then grind the ingredients together by hand in a mortar with a pestle, otherwise blend everything together in a food processor.
Serve over pasta, gnocchi or jacket potatoes. Or, just about anything that needs a little extra flavour!
Stone pine from Southsea, Hampshire